Pairing Saison Beers and Alpine Cheeses

Editor’s note: Cheese and beer are great together. Contributor David Phillips has been putting cheese and beer together—and writing about the results—for more than 10 years. In this installment, he looks at pairing Saison (aka farmhouse ale) with Alpine cheeses.

There are a handful of no-brainers when it comes to pairing cheese and beer. Among them are Saison beers of Belgium (often referred to as farmhouse ales when made elsewhere) paired with Gruyère, Comté or an American-made Alpine style cheese like Pleasant Ridge Reserve. The beer is usually light in body, with a bright, lively carbonation, and complex but subtle flavors. A good Alpine has a silky texture and an array of flavors that go from nutty to meaty and savory. I’ve put them together over and over again, in various combinations and they pretty much never disappoint.

What is Alpine Cheese?

Italian Fontina Val D'Aosta DOP
Emmental AOP read more about Emmental
Raclette read more about Racl ette
Comté read more about Comté
Appenzeller
Beaufort
Little Mountain from Roelli Cheese Haus, made in Wisconsin
Le Gruyère AOP read more about Gruyère
Fritzenhaus Appenzeller PDO
Hornkuhkase, a Swiss specialty
Whitney from Jasper Hill Farm (Alpine style) made in Vermont
Pleasant Ridge Reserve, (Alpine style) made in Wisconsin read more about Pleasant Ridge Reserve

This family of cheeses originated in and around the Alpine Mountains in Switzerland, Italy and France.

While it is fair to say that these cheeses have similar characteristics (they are melters, and most are lower in salt that other firm cheeses, for instance) there are also dramatic differences. Some of these cheeses are sold at varying ages, and younger wheels have a smooth and supple texture, while those aged longer will develop crystalline texture and lose some of their elasticity, becoming more crumbly.

Most of the European cheeses listed here are traditional, name protected styles made by multiple artisans. Where "specialty" is indicated, these are unique cheeses developed by a single cheesemaker or a small traditional group. All of the U.S. cheeses are specialties, as the U.S. has no name protection system for cheeses. And while the American made cheeses are of an outstanding quality, and similar enough to be included in this discussion, they are not the same, and should not be referred to by those protected names. Part of the reason those protections are given is that the place itself (the air, soil, water, microflora and plant species) are thought to contribute to the unique characteristics of the cheese. Last but not least, the American cheeses are quite obviously not from the Alps.

What is Saison?

Saison is a traditional farmhouse ale that originated in the French-speaking region of Belgium. The word "saison" translates to season in French, as this beer style was historically brewed during the cooler months and stored for consumption by farm workers during the hot summer months.

Characteristics of Saison beer

Appearance: Typically hazy golden to brown in color.
Aroma: Fruity, spicy, hoppy and often floral with hints of pepper, citrus, and sometimes earthy
Flavor: Low to moderate malt sweetness. Fruity, peppery, refreshing, moderately-bitter, moderate-strength with a very dry finish.
Alcohol Content: Generally 5% to 8% ABV.

Pairing: Saison Dupont with Langruti Le Gruyère AOP Antique

Saison Dupont with Langruti Le Gruyère AOP Antique

Recently, my girlfriend and I sat down with an old-world pairing made up of Saison Dupont with Langruti Le Gruyère AOP Antique, aged 12 months.

Saison Dupont was one of my favorites in the ‘90s when I first discovered good beer. We poured it from a cork-finished 750 ml bottle, now in amber glass (instead of green) to limit the possibility of light damage. The Langruti Gruyère is a fine example of the style.

Saison Dupont

The beer poured orange with a mousse-like white head. It was a bit hazy like a wheat beer. We got a corky aroma (almost smoky) and the appropriate peppery note. On the palate it was dry and bitter with notes of pepper in the aroma and flavor. There a slight hint of vanilla too, and plenty of springy carbonation, adding up to a crisp, refreshing beer with a reserved spiciness. This is still a favortite for me, and it is now also available in cans.

Langruti Le Gruyère AOP Antique

The Langruti brings just what you want in a Gruyère—a beautiful appearance, like a wedge of cut marble. I always get a chocolate cake and hazelnut aroma on the paste, and dirty socks on the rind. We tasted sautéed onion, leeks, and almond notes, and there was a nice silky texture to the cheese.

The cheese flavors slightly overwhelmed those of the beer at first, but then they morphed into a tangy/salty flavor more reminiscent of cheddar. That saltiness makes the beer all the more refreshing and you want to reach for another glass. We did, and gave the pairing 4 out of 5.

More Pairings

Comte Marcel Petite and Au Baron Cuvée des Jonquilles

Comte Marcel Petite, France, with Au Baron Cuvée des Jonquilles, French Bière de Garde. Biere de Garde is a traditional farmhouse style from Northern France near the border with Belgium’s Wallonia region.